We have 24 hours to spend in the capital, what do you suggest we do?
It’s a warm Saturday morning in late November. The jacaranda is in bloom and the parks and plazas are filling up. You’re staying either at the Palacio Duhau in Recoleta, or at Francis Ford Coppola’s boutique, Jardin Escondido, in Palermo Soho.
Find a nice cafe for breakfast - coffee and medialunas (sweet croissants). A table under the huge rubber tree in Recoleta’s Plaza Francia (traditional), or Villa Crespo’s Cafe Crispin (funky). Settle into the city’s morning rituals: the doormen hosing down the entrances to their apartment blocks, the professional walkers handling some 15-20 dogs at a time, the joggers, newspaper vendors and late night revellers threading their way home to sleep it off.
Hop on one of the city’s ubiquitous buses and head to San Telmo antiques market before the crowds descend, or explore the pretty residential neighbourhoods of Villa Ortúzar and Colegiales, great for photography and off the usual tourist beat.
Caseros is a favourite spot for lunch. Grab a table by the window, ceiling fans whirring overhead. Order a bottle of chilled Torrontes from the high-altitude vineyards of northwest Argentina. The menu is modern Argentine, fresh and light.
After lunch, head north along cobblestone streets, past colonial mansions, century-old cafes, shaded plazas and market stalls. It’s about a 4km walk through old town, past the famous Plaza de Mayo and government Pink House (originally painted in pigs’ blood, pictured below), over 9 de Julio, the widest street in the world, before hitting Recoleta, the smart Parisian quarter.